Sushi Amamoto is intimate, intricate and impeccable.
Many of us have eaten pizza in Italy and sipped wine in France, yet far fewer have experienced Japanese food in Japan itself. That hasn’t stopped the cuisine from becoming a global export, winning hearts and stomachs far beyond its shores. In London, for those seeking an authentic omakase – a chef-curated tasting menu where each dish is prepared in front of you – the newly opened Sushi Amamoto is the place to visit. We pulled up a seat at the 16-person counter, settled in with our chopsticks, and let the experience unfold course by course.
Situated on Albemarle Street, Sushi Amamoto sits among some of the capital’s culinary heavyweights, including the FACT Dining Award-winning Bar des Prés and Gykmkaha. Despite being new, it is already one of the city’s most exclusive tables. Getting a reservation is no easy feat – so much so that we had a back-and-forth with dates and managed to secure one seat for a lunchtime service. And, it is on the expensive side: £180 at lunchtime and £380 for dinner.
The concept is a collaboration between restaurateurs Geoff and Lucas Leong, known for Koi in Kensington Palace Gate, and it occupies the former home of Michelin-starred Taku. Taku’s Head Chef Jongho Park remains, joined by Shogo Amamoto as Executive Chef Patron. This marks Shogo’s first restaurant outside of Taiwan, where he moved after leaving his native Japan.
Sushi Amamoto is hidden behind an unassuming door, opening onto a narrow, corridor-like space. Once inside, we were seated at the 16-person counter on a high stool, with a front-row seat to the heart of the action. The décor is a calming blend of beige, brown and white tones, which could feel clinical but somehow manages to create a mellow, minimalist vibe. Note: if you want the full experience, there’s even a Japanese toilet.
The staff greet you with a quiet attentiveness that never feels overbearing, a hard balancing act when even the smallest details are taken into account. When I placed my bag on the floor, the staff gasped audibly and immediately whisked it away. My bag was placed under my seat on a napkin, and my phone was given its own little mat.
The experience begins immediately: while we waited for the other seats to fill, we sipped on a glass of Grand Siècle, watched fresh wasabi being crushed, and learned about the ingredients from the chef. The restaurant was half-filled with Japanese diners, and we were seated between Taiwanese diners, both of whom were fans of Shogo’s food.
The 16-course menu simply included one- to two-word titles for the dishes, from Turbot to Tuna – there’s little else in the description, and all the context came from the staff, who introduced the dishes like characters in a play, bringing drama onto your plate.
The journey started with Egg, which is a take on a traditional egg custard dish, chawanmushi. The creamy concoction felt more like a dessert, but we weren’t complaining. The Sashimi was spectacularly sliced, glistened in the light like a jewel, and was topped with a Hana Hojiso flower, which added a herbal note. The Red Mullet was transported from Cornwall to London and dry-aged for a week. The result was a dish with a tangy taste and a light bite.
With the sushi, it was all about getting hands-on. We watched as the chef checked the temperature of the rice, making sure it was a warm bed for the cold fish. Rice often feels like a supporting act in meals, but here it was treated like the star of the show. We were encouraged to eat the sushi as soon as it was served, and pick it up sans chopsticks.
The Turbot was served at the perfect temperature, the Yellowtail was wrapped in seaweed, and the Fatty Tuna descended on our plate from the food gods. Heaven help us, it was sweet yet savoury, strong yet soft. The melt-in-the-mouth marvel had us grinning from ear to ear.
The service was eagle-eyed. Even the slightest drop of rice was immediately picked up, and the plate was wiped each time I finished my sushi. Sommelier Haruka Fujita was quick to notice if glasses needed filling, and recommendations ranged from sake to sparkling tea.
The Miso offered a welcome pause between mains and desserts, and was amazingly aromatic with every sip. The Tamago straddled both the savoury and sweet camps. The Japanese take on an omelette was layered with egg and more on the salty side. The finale was Dessert – yes, it was just called Dessert – and it came with a vanilla ice cream sandwich and bean paste. It felt slightly like an afterthought, but all was forgiven after the preceding courses.
It’s rare to think about a restaurant for a week, but the experience stayed with me. I found myself raving about it to anyone who would listen. The staff provided a masterclass in passion and precision. Despite the small space and busy kitchen, everything ran like clockwork in 90 minutes – smooth and serene, and not a chef’s ego in sight. Omakase translates to “I’ll leave it up to the chef”. And, at Sushi Amamoto, leaving it up to the chef is the best decision you’ll make – and the closest you’ll get to the taste of Japan without stepping on a plane.
Where: Sushi Amamoto, 36 Albemarle Street, Mayfair, London, W1S 4JE
When: Wednesday to Saturday, 12:30pm, 6pm and 8:30pm
Price: £180 for lunch and £380 for dinner
Contact: www.amamotolondon.com