Located in Hanover Square, Mazarine was created by a former chef from La Petite Maison.
In William Shakespeare’s The Tempest, Prospero declares: “We are such stuff as dreams are made on.” We are reminded that the human experience is fleeting, ebbing and flowing like the sea. The sentiment is fitting for the new seafood restaurant, Mazarine. Located in Hanover Square, Mayfair, the name carries depth: it refers to a deep shade of blue reminiscent of the ocean, and a butterfly with delicate blue-purple wings. Both images capture the concept’s essence, reflecting its refinement and the ever-changing rhythm of seasonal ingredients and, of course, the sea.
London is no stranger to French dining, making it a challenge to stand out in the hospitality crowd. Mazarine is located among prestigious neighbours, from the Mandarin Oriental Mayfair to FACT Dining Award-winning The MAINE Mayfair. The restaurant is led by Chef Thierry Laborde, who has previously worked at Le Gavroche and La Petite Maison. And, FACT is a big fan of the latter, having visited its venues around the world, from Mykonos to Riyadh.
We visited Mazarine on a Saturday evening, arriving as the first guests for the night. The staff were attentive, if a touch overzealous, given that the waiters outnumbered the customers. The restaurant exuded a quiet confidence. Floor-to-ceiling windows framed the street outside, while yellow and blue chairs and colourful artwork punctuated the calm white tones and crisp tablecloths.
Lampshades dangled like delicate jewels from the undulating ceiling, while the brass bar hid like a secret treasure. And, if you needed reminding that you were in a French restaurant, Édith Piaf made an entrance through the speakers.
Mazarine’s menu celebrates seafood. It spans hors d’œuvres, caviar and fruits de mer, entrées, specials, grand plates, les plates, and garnitures. The Brioche au Caviar d’Aquitaine featured tiny toasted brioche generously topped with luxurious Aquitaine caviar. This pairing transformed the humble bread into an indulgent treat. The brioche’s sweetness balanced the caviar’s saltiness.
A selection of dishes reminded us of LPM, from the Crevettes Tièdes, Huile d’Olive et Basilic, to the Artichaut Tiède, Vinaigrette Citron et Anchois. The Crevettes Tièdes featured tender prawns with olive oil and fresh basil, and each bite was juicy, soft and fresh. The Artichaut Tiède arrived with warm artichoke slices arranged like a delicate flower, served with a lemon-and-anchovy vinaigrette. We plucked each slice and dipped it into the sauce, releasing bursts of flavour.
The Cabillaud Confit, Sauce Pil Pil was a masterclass in slow cooking, with flaky cod served in a silky Basque pil pil sauce. The Raviole de Crab was al dente, but it was the aromatic lobster and lemongrass broth that stole the show, adding depth beyond a typical ravioli.
Sides included a refined Ratatouille, served in a charming silver tin with finely diced vegetables for a fine-dining take on the classic stew. We could smell the Choi Grillé before it arrived. A smoky char crowned the grilled Savoy cabbage, which paired perfectly with a creamy anchovy sauce.
Desserts ranged from sweet to savoury, including Fromage du Pays cheese. The Soufflé Chocolat Noir was a warm delight, with dark chocolate oozing out at the tap of a spoon. Cocktails ranged from Dassault on Moët et Chandon Brut Impérial, infused with lavender, peach, and topped with a delicate flower, to the Margarita St Martin, with strong Cointreau, lime, and pomelo. Drinks also ranged from French wines to Champagne – a Charles Heidsieck, anyone?
With sparkling glasses in hand and the fresh air around us, the spectacular seafood swept us away. Mazarine: a dream of a restaurant.
GO: Visit https://mazarinerestaurant.com for more information.