Aki London preserves the past and serves the future.
London is filled with beautiful historic buildings that have been reimagined. Former banks have been transformed into restaurants, from McMullen’s pub to The Ned, London. Stern-faced bank managers have been replaced by welcoming restaurant hosts, and the clink of coins has given way to the chime of glasses. At Aki London on Cavendish Square in Marylebone, a £15 million refurbishment has brought the Japanese restaurant lovingly to life – and we found a place exuding elegance.
The Aki brand already operates in Valletta, Malta. This marks the brand’s debut in the United Kingdom and its first international expansion. Aki London sits behind a discreet door. Located near the bustle of Regent Street and Oxford Street, it’s easy to miss the steps to the entrance.
Once inside, the image of cash counters and clerks – it was once a NatWest Bank, after all – feels a world away. The Grade II-listed building has retained its charm, with high ceilings and latticework dating from 1825. The dining room occupies the main banking hall, while the cocktail bar is located in the former banking vault. Meanwhile, the room is a sight to see – the dark green sofas, large-scale artwork, and artistic light fixtures took our breath away.
Aki London has recruited a top team. The Restaurant Manager, Adam Hedroug, has come from the FACT Award-winning Sketch, while the others are warm, welcoming and ready to serve with quiet confidence. The menu offers starters, small dishes, sashimi, nigiri, maki sushi rolls, tempura, robata, wagyu, large dishes, rice dishes and desserts, all superb for sharing.
The chef has elevated the starters with special touches. We began with the Truffle Salt Edamame, which gave the humble starter an upgrade. Seasoned with truffle, it kept us nibbling while we waited. The Cho Toro Tuna Tartare arrived with jasmine caviar and toasted puffed brown rice, giving it a terrific texture. To top it off – literally – the waiter poured a 50-year-old sashimi soy sauce over the dish.
The Nigiri Omakase came with six pieces for £24, and expertly cut, fabulously fresh fish. The Wagyu Beef Gyoza were pockets of perfection, crispy yet soft, as they soaked up the truffle-onion miso. The Lumina Lamb Cutlets were crowd pleasers. The tender pieces were served in a kimchi marinade that gave them a salty and spicy kick. The Chilean Sea Bass was beautifully buttery and the prettiest plate of the meal.
Desserts were just as decadent. Everything felt carefully curated, from the eight-hour caramelisation on the Milk Chocolate Namelaka to the 18-year-old black mirin jelly on the Mayan Dark Chocolate Mousse. The Japanese Millefeuille was our favourite – it gave the French classic a Japanese twist. The light end to a filling meal came with sobacha and soya caramel.
The Aki London cocktails showcase Japanese takes on popular pours. The Green Tea cocktail was strong yet smooth – it was reminiscent of a Martini, but included Haku Japanese Vodka and a matcha ice ball. Moreover, the cocktail ingredients pay tribute to Japan with Kiyomi Japanese Rum, Roku Sakura Gin, and, of course, sake. Plus, the wines by the glass span France, Italy, and even the United Kingdom.
Aki London isn't just a restaurant. Welcome to a masterclass in maintaining history and turning it into a modern dining experience.
GO: Visit https://akilondon.com for more information.