The Pie King curates a menu filled with classic creations.
What’s in a pie? Pies have long been a symbol of horror and humour, from Mrs Lovett’s cannibalistic creations in Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street to the “chocolate” filled slice in The Help. At The Georgian in Harrods, the humble pie has been elevated into a thing of beauty, combining classic tradition with modern refinement.
The Georgian boasts a storied history. The venue dates back to 1911 and was London’s largest restaurant at the time. In its latest chapter, it has opened on the fourth floor of the world-famous department store. The dining room is discreetly tucked and opens into a luxurious location with shimmering chandeliers, plush pillars, dramatic drapes, and white tablecloths.
As the pianist plays timeless jazz standards, we feel like we are stepping back into an old MGM musical. Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers might arrive soon, and we would gladly join them in the dance. The venue boasts an old-world charm, and the service is impeccable, with waiters dressed in classic black tie. The staff are perfectly on point with their knowledge of dishes and the pairing of drinks.]=
We arrive for a Friday night dinner, and The Georgian is filled with more tourists than locals. By London standards, the tables are generous in both size and spacing. They fit plenty of dishes without having to play crockery Tetris. We book one of the sofa spots – and you should too. You can’t hear your neighbours, but you can see the pianist. Note: there is a tucked-away terrace, too, and the toilets are a trek through the sportswear section.
The Georgian offers afternoon tea during the day and dinner in the evening. The dinner menu is filled with traditional British dishes across the starters, pies, mains, sides, and desserts. The Devonshire Crab Tart was light and delicate, and came with hand-picked crab, brown crab mayonnaise, sea herbs, lemon, and pickled shallots, served with a light aromatic crab bisque.
If Jamie Oliver calls you the “Pie King,” then you know you’re doing something right. Calum Franklin is the master of all things pie and has curated the menu. The selection includes Braised Beef Shin Pie, Chicken and Asparagus Pie, and Leek and Dauphinoise Potato Pie. We went for the signature dish – The Georgian Pie – a golden, showstopping creation served in a portion perfect for two.
The pie enters the dining room like an esteemed guest. It’s wheeled in and ceremoniously introduced, then theatrically carved tableside, demanding its photo be taken. The size is just right, and the filling is pure comfort: slow-cooked shoulder of lamb with confit onions, accompanied by tempura anchovies, wild garlic mashed potatoes, and lamb consommé. It is one of the finest pies to cross my plate.
The dessert menu reads like a nostalgic school dinner line-up. We chose the Georgian Trifle Trolley and the Bread and Butter Pudding. The trifle is an Insta-delight, made tableside with a custom selection of ingredients. The pudding is spot on: a citrus-laced brioche bread and butter pudding studded with Grand Marnier-soaked raisins, served with warm citrus custard and cool Madagascan vanilla ice cream.
The signature cocktails draw inspiration from the past and range from the Georgian Martini, made with Tanqueray No. Ten Gin, to the Victoria Sponge Punch with jam, milk, and vanilla. We sip our way through the brand’s own Harrods Premier Cru Brut Champagne, which added a touch of sparkle to the meal.
The Georgian is defined by its pies. These pies tell a tale of craftsmanship with passion and precision. Step into the story, one bite at a time.
GO: Visit www.harrods.com for more information.