Welcome to London's fantastic, foxy new haunt.
London Hilton on Park Lane has gone from star-studded to subdued. When it first opened, it welcomed celebrities and royalty. While it has a long legacy, the razzmatazz of the early days has faded, but that is set to return with a new wave of restaurants. Now, it’s rolling out the red carpet for MR PORTER London.
A spiral staircase, discreetly tucked within the hotel, leads to MR PORTER London, a subterranean steakhouse where moody lighting, luxe fabrics, and carnivorous cravings come together in a surprisingly sophisticated package. The space formerly occupied by Trader Vic's has undergone a dramatic transformation, trading Polynesian kitsch for copper tones, velvet fabrics, and a 360-degree bar that immediately sets the tone.
Brought to London by The Entourage Group, the same team behind branches in Amsterdam and Barcelona, MR PORTER London channels the spirit of Mayfair through the eyes of a fox. Cunning and curious, this emblematic creature shapes everything from the branding to the categories on the menu, which range from Little-Kick-Start to More Meat and Sinful Dessert. Playful, yes, but the experience feels grown-up, ensuring this is no ordinary hotel restaurant.
The restaurant design, conceived by Baranowitz + Kronenberg, pays homage to the Tyburn River, a subterranean stream that still courses beneath London's surface. It's an apt metaphor. MR PORTER feels like a hidden warren beneath the city: seductive and quietly pulsing with energy. The 700-square-metre space is cloaked in mauve upholstery, cocooned curtain partitions, and polished mirrored ceilings. Materials like brushed copper and natural stone offer visual warmth, while soft lighting flatters both food and faces.
Service is brisk, efficient, and relaxed. There's no heavy-handed upselling, just thoughtful recommendations and a sense of ease. From the outset, it's clear MR PORTER London isn't shackled by traditional steakhouse tropes. Yes, the premium meat takes centre stage, but the supporting acts are worthy of their own applause. A blistered Focaccia arrives first, pulled hot from the wood-fired oven and served with a vibrant green pesto, streaked with sour cream and tahini. It's simple but indulgent, and a sign of good things to come.
Dishes offer elevated twists on steakhouse classics from Foie Gras to Oysters. Yet, the highlight is the Carpaccio Bar, which encroaches on the dining room, offers delicate starters designed for sharing. Avocado crowned with caviar is light and luxe, while the thinly sliced Roast Beef (£26), served on parchment, slicked with olive oil and scattered with rock salt and fresh green chilli lets the ingredient shine without distraction. A Spicy Yellowtail Sashimi (£25) arrives folded over a lotus crisp. It's punchy and texturally balanced, though the sauce could benefit from a lighter hand.
When it comes to the main event, MR PORTER delivers. The steak selection includes ten cuts, ranging from Japanese A5 Wagyu (£96 per 100g) to a show-stopping Tomahawk. Our choice, the dry-aged Mrs Porter (£112), served medium-rare, is marbled, tender, and full of flavour. It requires no adornment, though a tray of sauces and condiments is offered. The Baby Back Ribs (£42) are another standout: lacquered in a sticky glaze, the meat yields effortlessly from the bone at the mere touch of a fork.
Side dishes are referred to as "accessories" and are indulgent without being overwrought. Skinny Fries with Basil Aioli (£9) are golden and crisp; Cauliflower Mac N' Cheese (£18) is comforting and homely; and a Crunchy Onion Loaf (£18) offers a mountain of nostalgic comfort.
Desserts continue the theme of playful indulgence. A molten Chocolate Fondant (£19.50) is textbook in execution, glossy on the outside, oozy within and is served with a caramel ice cream. The Popcorn Crème Brûlée (£19.50), however, may divide opinion. Sweet corn, jalapeño, and caramelised popcorn make for an intriguing mix, but the sweetness of the creamy custard is intense. It's fun, but a touch overwhelming after the richness of the main courses.
Cocktails are where MR PORTER fully embraces its theatrical side. Love Potion arrives beneath a cloud of cotton candy, the drink itself a silky blend of rum, rose and raspberry. While the Chestnut Sour blends Hennessy VS with chestnut liqueur, mastiha, lemon, chrysantheum honey syrup and aquafaba.
What sets MR PORTER London apart from other steakhouses in the capital is its willingness to rewrite the rules. This isn't about dark woods, excessive masculinity and stiff service. Instead, it's a confident, contemporary take on the genre — one that ensconces guests in mood, movement, and modernity just as much as it does marbling.
It's also a clever addition to London Hilton Park Lane's restaurant repertoire, which already includes Park Corner Brasserie and Shanghai Me, a Dubai export from Chef Izu Ani. While the latter caters to the city's upscale Pan-Asian cravings, MR PORTER London fills a different niche: sultry, social, and unmistakably stylish.
If you're following the fox and descending into this den for drinking and dining, rest assured, it leads somewhere worthwhile. MR PORTER London makes a strong case for dining beneath the surface — and dazzles on every level.
GO: Visit www.mrportersteakhouse.com for more information.