Are we entering East London's new dining era?
Stratford has long shaken off its reputation as a forgotten corner of East London. Once little more than a convergence of train lines and retail ambition, the 2012 Olympic Games sparked a transformation that continues today. What was once a landscape of betting shops, chicken shops, and marshland is now home to cultural landmarks, the expansive Westfield shopping centre, and a clutch of elevated eateries. The arrival of Kokin signals another turning point in this legacy.
Perched on the seventh floor of The Stratford Hotel, a modernist monolith of glass and brick positioned a stone's throw from Stratford International Station, Kokin is as close to destination dining as this part of the capital has seen. Taking over the former Allegra site, Kokin trades in the dark opulence of its predecessor for a natural, understated elegance. Pale wood, muted tones, and a minimalist design dominate the 140-cover space, framed by floor-to-ceiling windows that pull the skyline in. The aesthetic is almost meditative, which is fitting for a restaurant that seeks to marry past and present.
The name "Kokin" is taken from the Japanese term meaning "ancient and modern," and it's an apt descriptor for the food. At the helm is chef Daisuke Shimoyama, formerly of Hannah in County Hall on the Southbank, whose pedigree and precision are evident from the first bite of sushi. Hailing from Gunma, Japan, Shimoyama crafts an omakase-style menu shaped by memory and modernity, with a firm focus on fire, smoke, and seasonality.
At the heart of Kokin's culinary philosophy is the sustainable use of bluefin tuna. Sourced from Spanish and Portuguese waters via revered fisherman Hajime Tanaka, the fish arrives whole and is dissected in-house with surgical finesse. This fin-to-gill ethos honours every part of the tuna, from the silky otoro and fatty chutoro to the prized collar. Kokin is, in fact, the only restaurant in London to serve it.
That collar, or Kama (£28), proves to be one of the evening's most memorable dishes. Fatty, charred, and unapologetically bold, the fish arrives kissed by cherry wood smoke and tempered by an eight-year-aged ponzu sauce. It's a dish of depth and texture, where the fatty yet flavourful cut, served on the bone, is a welcome reminder that not all signature ingredients need to be reworked beyond recognition.
The omakase offering, particularly the chef's selection of Nigiri (£32), is handled with restraint and reverence. Five pieces are delivered in sequence: cuttlefish, hamachi, and three cuts of tuna that build in richness and character. The chutoro is buttery and precise, while the cuttlefish stuns with its clean, almost creamy finish. Each sits atop smoked rice, a clever flourish that ties the entire experience to the restaurant's fire-led theme.
Elsewhere, there's a delicate Scallop Tartare (£18.50), sweet and supple, and an interactive moment in the form of DIY rolls (£35), where guests build their own maki using wild Blue Fin Tuna, Ikura Salmon Roe, and seasoned rice. It's theatrical without being forced, allowing the quality of the product to shine.
To drink, Kokin offers a concise yet considered selection of premium sakes, natural wines, and cocktails that lean towards Japanese flavours. A Yuzu Highball proves a refreshing foil to the richness of the tuna, while a red shiso-infused Gin Martini brings a beguiling balance to proceedings.
The meal ends on a curious but compelling note: Woodfire Ice Cream (£10). Laced with smoke and served with a tart raspberry coulis, it's divisive but daring, with the fermented fruit slightly overpowering the smoked-imbued dairy. However, it's a dish that lingers long after the final spoonful.
Service is confident and well-paced, with the kitchen counter team particularly adept at narrating the provenance of each dish.
As someone who lived in Stratford before the days of the ArcelorMittal Orbit or the arrival of V&A East, the notion of an omakase-driven restaurant would have seemed laughable. And yet, here we are, with the Elizabeth Line running like clockwork, and a hotel that wouldn't feel out of place in central London, the only restaurant in London serving tuna collar does so with the ambition and confidence of somewhere twice its postcode's price point.
Kokin sits poised at an interesting intersection of culinary craft and cultural renewal, offering another sign that East London's story is still being written a decade and a half after the 2012 Olympic Games.
GO: Visit https://kokin.co.uk for more information.