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FACT Review: Parisian perfection at Pavyllon London

With enough MICHELIN stars to form a constellation, Chef Yannick Alléno’s London debut arrives in the capital amidst much scrutiny.

Following successful openings in Paris and Monte Carlo, French chef Yannick Alléno’s third outpost of Pavyllon has taken up residence in the fitting ultra-luxe location, Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane. Located at lobby level, Pavyllon London boasts a modern, minimalist décor and sweeping views over Park Lane.

We begin our culinary adventure at Bar Antoine, where teal upholstery and a sleek marble counter segue into masterful mixology from Head Mixologist Michele Lombardi. Here, reimagined favourites vie for attention with innovative concoctions such as Chef Yannick’s distinctive Allenotics (a contemporary take on Gin & Tonic), The Gold Fashioned (Santa Teresa 1796, Pineapple Extraction, Five Spices Syrup and Bitters) and non-alcoholic extractions. Named after Chef Yannick’s late son, Antoine, the bar is a beautiful tribute to a life taken too soon.

Pavyllon London

Taking over the space formally occupied by Italian restaurant Amaranto, Pavyllon London offers a complete transformation, playing into the venue’s abundance of natural light while providing counter seating for up to 30 guests facing the busy open kitchen. Designed by Chahan Minassian (the Parisian designer who worked on Pavyllon Paris and Pavyllon Monte Carlo), the interiors are warm and inviting, evoking the feeling of a chic Parisian residence through the use of lacquered panelling, mohair velvets, woven silk textiles, and hand-blown Murano chandeliers.

While the restaurant serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner to a clientele of high-end hotel guests and well-heeled Mayfair residents, we’d highly recommend the latter for an evening of French haute-cuisine. The culinary offerings at Pavyllon London remain in a constant state of evolution, a reflection of Chef Yannick’s inventive culinary ideology, where dishes draw inspiration from British seasonal produce and French cooking techniques.

Pavyllon London
Curry Man’ouché with Powdered Herb Salad

Although Chef Yannick is not present on the evening we dine, we’re in capable hands. We opt for the Mayfair Tasting Menu, which includes four stunning courses for £98 per person. A six-course Pavylllon Tasting Menu and a full à la carte menu are also available. 

Our first foray begins with the Curry Man’ouché with Powdered Herb Salad, an elevated take on Middle Eastern pizza that features black garlic, pistachio and ginger gel atop a fresh-from-the-oven flatbread that is as crisp as it is fragrant. The Not-So-Classic Prawn Cocktail is a masterclass in precise plating in which the plump prawns are served with fennel, cucumber and dill before being topped with parmesan shavings and luscious dollops of trout roe.

Pavyllon London
Not-So-Classic Prawn Cocktail

Pavyllon London’s Steamed Cheddar Soufflé is a testament to Chef Yannick’s culinary finesse, offering a light-as-air savoury take on the popular dessert in which the soufflé is veiled with a vibrant watercress coulis and alluring bacon butter. Elsewhere, the Modern Beef Fillet Stroganoff appears to be a popular plate, offering rich beef coated in a robust sauce on a bed of basmati rice. Topped with paprika-seasoned crispy potato strings, it’s a textural marvel.

Dessert is a Spiced Chocolate Clover with roasted coffee ice cream and cardamom. We’re so impressed by Chef Yannick’s patented extraction method, where desserts are sweetened with birch sap instead of sugar, that we order another. Despite being tempted by the British Cheese Selection (£24) and Ultimate Crêpe Soufflée (£18), we settle for the decadent À La Minute Chocolate Soufflé (£18) flambéed with Amaretto. 

Pavyllon London
À La Minute Chocolate Soufflé

It’s difficult to believe that it has taken Chef Yannick decades to venture into London’s dynamic dining scene. Chef Yannick Alléno is the second most lauded chef in MICHELIN history with 15 stars across 17 restaurants. His restaurants span the globe, from Alléno Paris (three MICHELIN stars) to STAY by Yannick Alléno in Dubai (two MICHELIN stars).

If French fine dining backed by strong service is your thing, look no further. With a penchant for distillation, extraction, fermentation and a culinary approach that uses the past to propel his cuisine into the future, Chef Yannick Alléno’s Pavyllon London is a masterclass in modern gastronomy. 

GO: Visit www.pavyllonlondon.com for reservations and more information.

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David Tapley - Editor-in-Chief
As the editor-in-chief for one of the region’s most fiercely local lifestyle publications, David Tapley is a self-proclaimed Hip-Hop aficionado, championing all things, food, travel, street art, and streetwear across the UAE and KSA.

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