Escape the bustle of the city and take an unexpected breath in Covent Garden.
Soom has achieved what some might believe impossible: providing a peaceful haven in the middle of the city. Upon entering, you immediately feel at ease, with sleek interiors and attentive staff. We left our worries at the door and savoured a delicious culinary experience crafted by experts.
Soom means “breath” in Korean, and that is exactly what it offers – a breath of fresh air. Located on the busy St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden, it occupies the former Theatre Café. While the area is bustling, Soom’s location allows it to offer a tranquil escape amid the chaos.
The team behind this venture already operates the Korean restaurant 3KOBROS in Canary Wharf, focusing on a Korean Food Quick Service model. Soom, however, takes a more refined approach to Korean BBQ. Instead, it steps into the fine-dining scene in the heart of the West End.
The interiors evoke a speakeasy-meets-wellness lounge vibe, with a romantic setting and dark colour palette. Wood panelling, low lighting, and strips of light highlighting the church-like archways create a strong yet calming energy.
Seating encourages communal dining, in line with the Korean BBQ tradition. Guests can choose a large feature table for bigger groups or intimate alcove seating for two to four. Best of all, they are all fitted with hidden grills.
Upon arrival, the front-of-house hostess and the bar welcome you. Mother-of-pearl art, Goryeo celadon (medieval Korean ceramics), and soft hanji paper lighting decorate the space. This blend of nature, heritage and stillness provides the perfect introduction to Soom.
Welcomed with a warm smile, we settled into our alcove and received a wealth of menu recommendations. The staff were knowledgeable and attentive, making us feel in safe hands.
For starters, we ordered the Kimchi Jeon (Kimchi Pancake), which was juicy, crispy and full of flavour – a tangy opener to the meal. This was followed by the Gogi Gun Mandu (Pan-fried Dumplings), which could have benefitted from a slightly longer fry, though the generous portion was satisfying.
The main course arrived promptly and piping hot. First, the Beef BBQ Platter, featuring premium ribeye, tenderloin cooked with whole cloves of garlic, and boneless short rib. Accompanied by a spicy spring onion salad, fresh lettuce, three Korean pickles and three dipping sauces, the meat was succulent, buttery and moreish – especially the tenderloin. Guests cook the BBQ themselves on the hidden table grills, with careful guidance provided on the correct way to enjoy each cut.
We also tried the Wang Galbi Jjim (Braised King-sized Beef Short Ribs). The meat fell off the bone, braised in a sweet, thick Korean soy sauce with roasted vegetables. Rich and indulgent, this dish is traditionally served for Korean royalty due to its luxurious cuts and preparation.
Another recommendation was the Deulkkae Makguksu (Perilla Oil Buckwheat Noodles), tossed in aromatic roasted perilla oil in front of us and topped with seaweed and a rich egg yolk for a silky texture. Typically served cold, this dish is an acquired taste in both flavour and texture.
Sides included assorted pickles such as daikon, cucumber and kimchi, providing fresh palate cleansers after the richer mains.
Drink options were plentiful. We chose a Bokbunja Highball (Korean raspberry wine, lemon and tonic) and a Mule by Soom (Yuja, Soju, lemon, mint, ginger ale) – both light, refreshing and dangerously easy to drink.
As we dined, Soom quickly filled with a varied crowd: couples on date nights and groups celebrating birthdays, fuelled by soju. Despite being only in its fourth week, the space felt comfortable and welcoming, with guests at ease in their surroundings.
Every dish was carefully prepared, honouring Korean heritage while prioritising presentation, performance and taste. Soom is one of a kind, offering high-end Korean cuisine at a reasonable price point, set within unique interiors and a genuinely relaxing atmosphere.
GO: Visit https://soomkorean.com for more information.