The celebrity chef makes a MICHELIN-worthy meal.
London super-chef Jason Atherton has been busy. Not content with opening several restaurants in Dubai in 2023, with his Row on 45 winning two Michelin stars just ten months later, he also opened five outlets in London at the end of last year. Of these, Row on 5, which, like its older Dubai sister, serves a tasting menu only, has already won a MICHELIN star. Three Darlings we praised as a hidden gem. And for Sael, a high-ceilinged restaurant around the corner from Piccadilly Circus, Atherton brought in the Head Chef of his late flagship restaurant, the MICHELIN-starred Pollen Street Social, as Executive Chef.
Early reviews of Sael praised some dishes but found others wanting. So, we wondered, has it found its feet in the intervening months?
Emphatically yes. If I worked for Michelin, I’d be lobbying for a star come February’s awards.
Things started well with the pre-dinner cocktails, which were not just excellent but unbelievable value at under £10 – Jason Atherton being on a mission to make fine dining accessible to all. We ate à la carte, but those on a budget can enjoy Sael’s three-course Prix Fixe menu for just £28.50.
Right from the Snacks section of the menu, the bar is set high. We shared a single Tempura Rock Oyster with Sarson’s “Scraps”, which was a mouthful of deep flavour and satisfying crunch.
The signature Marmite English Custard Tart was something else. Neither of us felt like ordering it – we don’t particularly like Marmite; or custard! – but we were swayed by its reputation and the recommendation of the Maître d’. Thank goodness.
Pictures online give a false sense of scale: it’s actually a delicate, jewel-like slice, small enough and pretty enough to wear on a necklace. It has three layers – a pastry base, a set custard middle, and a lightly crispy caramelised topping – given an umami richness by the Marmite. We ate it in tiny bites to prolong the experience.
For starters, the Sicilian Courgette Flower, Ricotta, Honey, Basil Puree was truly excellent, but it was the Raw Orkney Sea Scallop, Pear, Jalapeño, and Lime that brought the wow. The tender shellfish was interlaced with thin slices of turnip for texture, and topped with a refreshing pear granita (effectively a posh slushie).
Out of the From The Embers selection of charcoal-grilled mains, we chose Spring Devon Lamb rather than steak – a surer test of skill. This was exceptional – tender and with a hint of smoke, served with grilled mint peas, a thrilling mint gremolata and a rich, deep sauce. The only minor complaint is that you expect to find some fat with lamb; but given that they pre-slice the meat, why leave these lumps in?
From the Mid Plates, we followed the restaurant manager Giacomo’s suggestion of Native Lobster, Prawn and Scallop Lasagna Baked in a Lobster Bisque. This, to me, was very heavenly. Beautifully presented in a cast-iron round-eared dish, the pasta came in delicate, thin layers with the perfect degree of al dente. The bisque was pure, concentrated flavour, and there was a refreshing zing of lemon to give this wintry dish a summery vibe.
Could the desserts match up? The “Banana Split” Soft Serve, Caramelised Banana, Chocolate Brownie, and Peanut Brittle was great fun, and we ate every mouthful with relish. And the Choux Bun, Whipped Lemon Curd, and Lemon Sorbet were nothing short of sublime – the sorbet coated with the creamy curd, layered inside the perfect choux pastry, and topped with crystallised lemon shreds.
A great restaurant needs a great wine list, and Sael delivers. We let the sommelier choose our pairings for each dish, and we were glad we did.
Aside from the more obvious choice of a very fine Rioja with the lamb, he took us on a journey of discovery. It encompassed a volcanic island between the coasts of Tunisia and Sicily; the Brda region of Slovenia; the Kochi Prefecture in Japan, with a Suigei sake; and southern Australia. As well as, true to Jason Atherton’s very British-inspired cooking, a Hattingley Valley sparkling wine from Hampshire.
I am still sceptical of English wines. Despite climate change affecting viticulture here, I follow Samuel Johnson’s dictum that “It is like a dog’s walking on its hind legs. It is not done well, but you are surprised to find it done at all.”
The first sip confirmed my prejudice: the finish was tart and tight. But the genius of a good sommelier is in finding the right pairing with a particular dish – when drunk with the courgette flower, the wine made perfect sense.
I don’t know what dark alchemy Simone draws upon, but take my tip: when you eat at Sael, let him be your tour guide.
GO: Visit www.saellondon.com for more information.