This ode to Bombay's secret speakeasies makes for the perfect night out.
Few restaurants have queues around the block in London. Dishoom has achieved legendary status among locals and is loved for its Indian cuisine. Now, the team behind the concept have brought Permit Room to Portobello Road in Notting Hill.
Permit Room can already be found in Brighton, Cambridge and Oxford. The restaurant draws inspiration from the permit rooms in Mumbai, India. The name harks back to the days of India's Independence and refers to speakeasy-like spots where alcohol was permitted to be served. These spots became social hubs, and the centre of communities, and Permit Room Notting Hill has perfectly emulated that history.
Permit Room is an all-day bar-café serving delicious breakfasts, warming curries, generous sharing plates, refreshing drinks and much more. Coming into the cosy space after a windy, wet journey, the interiors were as we'd hoped - warm and welcoming, with low lighting and dark wood. We moved upstairs from the bustling bar area into the dining room, filled with houseplants and artwork by local artists.
The staff were a delight: charismatic, professional and passionate about the establishment. They all had their own personal dishes, encouraging us to sample more as the evening went on. For starters, we were urged to order the Chilli Cheesy Garlic Naan Bites, with several staff members telling us it was their go-to dish. Small but plentiful squares of cheesy naan bites filled with fresh green chilli landed on the table - gooey and piping hot - we were quickly won over by the moreish morsels.
The Crispy Spinach Chaat was next, a contemporary take on the usual Dishoom house chaat. The baby leaf spinach was fried until crunchy, then soaked in a fresh yoghurt mixture with tamarind, spices and fresh pomegranate. The combination of flavours was appealing, light and zesty, the perfect opener to a delicious meal.
Chicken Pick-me-ups were a welcome addition, a hot Indo-Chinese dish with battered chicken pieces and a spicy red chilli chutney on the side. Fish Chapali rounded off the starters, offering a succulent, well-seasoned grilled fish patty with refreshing green chutney and kachumber salad.
Prawn Moilee was the first main dish recommended to us, a creamy, fragrant dish from Kerala. We paired it with the Half Tandoori Chicken, spatchcocked and slow-cooked for 48 hours and marinated in a variety of spices. The meat was tender and juicy, falling off the bone, and it's easy to see why the dish has become a fan favourite at Permit Room.
The Charred Sweet Potato, also known as Shakarkandi, was an unexpected addition. The yellow Indian sweet potato, grilled and slathered with a tangy chilli-lime masala, offered comfort and carbs. Dishoom's famed black dhal was on the list too, cooked for over 24 hours; this creamy dish is renowned for a reason.
Dessert was a Rum-Soaked Gulab Jamun - a contemporary take on this South Asian classic. It was served piping hot, sprinkled with pistachios and offered a nostalgic end to the night.
Drinks, specifically cocktails, were peppered throughout the evening, starting with the Permit Room Clover Club, which fuses House raspberry and lychee liquor with gin and lemon oil and is topped with coconut-cardamom foam. The Feni Martini is a twist on the classic cocktail, with a nod to Indian moonshine. For heavyweights, order the Blushing Dawn Paloma, a Kumquat juice with chilli-infused Altos Plata tequila, salt, lime-oil sugar and Del Maguey mezcal.
In addition to its well-stacked food menu, Permit Room hosts a number of local resident DJs every Thursday and Saturday. The curated repertoire includes funk, punk, hip-hop, Bollywood, disco and soul. These weekly DJ nights are a tribute to Bombay's constant buzz and energy, providing the ideal third space for locals.
Permit Room's ethos is for customers to come as they are, which is reflected in their demeanour and customer service. There's always a fragrant, warm meal and a smiling face awaiting you at Permit Room.
GO: Visit www.permitroom.co.uk for more information.