Hari Shetty and Ori Geller create a neighbourhood gem.
“This is dangerously good,” says my dining partner as they take another spoonful. I nod in agreement, mouth full of a dazzling dish. Located in the headline-worthy redevelopment of Whiteley’s in Bayswater, this new restaurant is hard to pin down. Is it Japanese? Is it Mexican? No, it’s Nela, and it’s all the better for it.
Nela was conceptualised by chefs Hari Shetty and Ori Geller, and was founded in partnership with entrepreneur Gilad Hayeem. The first restaurant opened in Amsterdam before expanding to Ibiza. The team aims to create a pure experience, from the space to the plates and the seasonal ingredients. Ori previously worked at the Michelin-starred restaurant The Duchess, while Hari was Head Chef at Nobu Park Lane.
We arrived on a weekday for lunch, and it was on the quieter side. By the evening, however, it began to liven up with music and atmosphere. It even feels like one of those rare central London restaurants that has a true neighbourhood feel. So much so, we noticed friends we met earlier in Bayswater stopping by for a drink – “It’s our local, and we come here all the time”, they shared. And, in an area with surprisingly few standout spots, we can see why.
Nela’s décor suggests that less is more. Everything is muted and minimal, and the dishes – perfectly plated and bursting with flavour – take centre stage. Sit by the open kitchen to watch the chefs at work, or opt for the longer banquettes or intimate tables for two.
Towards the back, the bar offers cocktails, mocktails, whiskies and wines. The Fog Message mocktail makes an amazing aperitif, blending fresh lemonade, honey and yuzu. Wines by the glass range from Riesling and Sancerre to Bourgogne Pinot Noir and Rioja Reserva.
Nela’s menu is divided into breads, pizza, salads, raw and cured dishes, vegetables, fish and seafood, poultry and meat, and desserts. Plates are designed for sharing, with portions on the smaller side. Chef Hari, who was at the restaurant, explains: “We both bring our culinary backgrounds to the menu, but at the heart of it is fire cooking.”
Premium ingredients such as caviar, oysters and truffle appear throughout, all served with that unpretentious smile. Our waiter was professional yet personable, and each recommendation was spot on.
We began with Sesame Flatbread with labneh and matbucha – a moreish marvel. The Charcoal-Kissed Toro with aged white balsamic arrived in four delicate pieces. The fatty tuna was cooked over high heat, and the result was a soft, smoky and deeply satisfying bite.
The Nela Tomato Salad was served atop stracciatella, with plump, pretty red and yellow tomatoes that tasted as though they’d been picked moments ago. The Fire-Roasted Yellowtail Collar with chimichurri offered a silky centre and crispy skin, perfectly balanced by the herb-packed dressing. Every dish was finished with enthusiasm, as we fought over the last forkful, and often required us to stop the waiter mid-clear so we could clean the plates.
The dessert menu ticks off classics, from Baked Madeleines to the Nela Tiramisu, each with a creative twist. While the baked Alaska with passionfruit and yuzu marshmallow delivers the Insta-moment – soaring flames included – it’s the Yuzu Basque Cheesecake with roasted fruit that’s return-worthy. Rich, creamy and perfectly balanced, it may well be the best Basque cheesecake we’ve tasted in London. Naturally, we can’t wait to double-check.
Nela: Be warned – it’s dangerously good.
GO: Visit https://nelarestaurant.com for more information.