This Indonesian oasis brings the vibrant flavours of the East to the West.
London is home to cuisines from around the world. Now, it has welcomed an Indonesian restaurant, Le Nusa. Located at the Strand, here’s what to expect from the new concept.
Le Nusa is the latest business venture by the Indonesian celebrity couple, actor-singer-entrepreneur Raffi Ahmad and actress Nagita Slavina. Don’t mistake this for a celebrity vanity project; however, as Le Nusa confidently brings simple and traditional Indonesian cuisine to the capital, separate from its owner’s reputation.
Following outposts in Jakarta and Paris, its London branch debuted on none other than the Strand, immediately opposite the Royal Courts of Justice. Le Nusa, meaning ‘archipelago’, draws inspiration from Indonesia’s traditions and diverse regions, presented through a modern lens.
Enter the space and forget the bustle of the city, as Le Nusa’s ambience provides plenty of warmth and comfort from the onset. Its interior design evokes this through woven Batik patterns, textiles, and references to suntiang (traditional golden headdresses) and Gebyok (Javanese carved wooden partitions). Dark woods and mood lighting make it the ideal setting for a blustery spring evening, as my guest and I fawned over the intricately carved cutlery handles depicting silhouettes of Wayang Kulit (Indonesian shadow puppets).
Welcomed with a smile, we were seated on the top floor by the window - the perfect people-watching spot whilst perusing the menu. Le Nusa’s concept is named ‘Indonesian bistronomy’, evoking the communal and casual history of Indonesian cuisine, drawing inspiration from across the region from North Sumatra, Central Java, Bali and Betawi.
We were encouraged to start with the Siomay Bandung, delectable morsels of cold chicken and prawn dumplings with a sweet soy and peanut sauce. The perfect opener to a perfect meal. We followed this with the Bakso Le Nusa (meatballs in a clear beef broth with vermicelli rice noodles and fried shallots). In Indonesia, bakso is usually served by a street vendor or a ‘warung’ (a smaller, family-owned joint), making its addition to the menu comforting and familiar. The broth is poured in front of you - a move that makes our mouths water already.
The options for main dishes are plentiful and all equally inviting, but we eventually settled for the Redang Daging, a succulent slow-cooked beef shin with Minangkabau coconut milk reduction, galangal, lemongrass and turmeric leaf, followed by the Ikan Saus Santan, a pan-seared sea bass with tomato, chayote, carrot and spicy smoked coconut milk sauce. The latter, with sea bass from Central Java, was especially exceptional, served in bite-sized pieces and incredibly moreish. The sauce's spice levels were well-balanced, with a unique smokiness and creaminess, slathered over the juicy bass fillet.
Desserts rounded off the fragrant meal, as we split the Pisang Goreng, which are crispy, warm banana fritters with palm sugar, cool coconut ice cream and cookie crumble, followed by the Dadar Gulung, palm-sugar grated coconut, wrapped in fluffy pandan crepes with a sweet palm sugar syrup, cashew nut crumb, and even more refreshing coconut ice cream.
In addition to its usual dinner offering, Le Nusa has a pre-theatre menu - two courses for £32 or three for £39 - perfect for its location, which is a stone’s throw from the West End.
In a city crowded with new openings, Le Nusa distinguishes itself through substance rather than spectacle. The setting is thoughtful, the cooking is full of character, and the menu offers an interesting introduction to the depth and diversity of Indonesian cuisine.
Where: Le Nusa, 227-228 Strand, Temple, London WC2R 1BE
When: Open Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 2pm and 5pm to 10pm
Contact: https://lenusa.co.uk