FACT joined the queues in Farringdon for a bowl from Ivan Ramen.
Lining up for anything is the ultimate act of devotion. People are speaking from their hearts as well as their stomachs. When it’s dark and pouring with rain, it might as well be an act of love. That’s exactly what Ivan Orkin’s new restaurant in London, Ivan Ramen, inspires – and it’s easy to see why.
Born in New York, Ivan moved to Japan in the 1980s, driven by a passion for perfecting bowls of ramen. In 2017, he appeared on the Netflix series Chef’s Table, offering viewers a behind-the-scenes look at the kitchens of acclaimed international chefs. People got to see how Ivan worked in New York and learn more about the man behind the bowls.
Ivan is no stranger to London. In 2023, he launched a pop-up restaurant, and now he has opened a permanent venue in the heart of Farringdon. The restaurant is discreetly tucked away behind a dark exterior. Once inside, you are immediately struck by the kitchen – the sights, the smells, and the warm welcome from the staff, especially the restaurant manager, Graham.
Ivan Ramen is small, seating just 26 guests. What it lacks in design, it more than makes up for in its dishes. The walls are modestly decorated, but the space feels intimate, and it wouldn’t be out of place in Tokyo. We spotted two children eating ramen with their hands, right alongside Japanese diners savouring theirs the traditional way.
The menu spans small plates, ramen, and dessert. Many of the small plates are superb for sharing, offering a balanced mix of meat and vegetarian options. Note: We arrived early on a Friday evening, and some dishes had already sold out.
The Crispy Nasue featured aubergine coated in a nutty white sesame purée, smoky mayu, and a dusting of togarashi. Each bite balanced crunch and creaminess beautifully. Our fingers kept returning to Ivan’s Karaage, buttermilk-marinated chicken thighs fried to golden perfection and accompanied by a zesty yuzu kosho mayonnaise. The Salt Beef Bun was reminiscent of a soft bao. Filled with tender salt beef and tangy dill pickles, we had to cut it in half to share the love.
At the heart of Ivan Ramen is its carefully curated ramen menu, offering six distinct options. While we were encouraged to try the signature Tori Paitan – a comforting bowl of minced and crispy chicken – it made our hearts flutter.
The Tonkotsu was what made our hearts melt. The bowl delivered a deeply satisfying experience: a rich, umami-packed broth, wood ear mushrooms, tangy pickled mustard greens, and a soft egg. Each mouthful offered layer upon layer of flavour. Plus, a springy noodle that we finished with joy.
The Truffle Veggie was an aromatic creation, with a vegetable-mushroom dashi, tender oyster mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, crisp tenderstem broccoli, and fresh spring onions. The truffle added depth without overwhelming the dish.
There is one dessert on the menu: Yuzu Cheesecake. When we ordered, we were told it had sold out – but somehow they managed to create the very last one. The creamy creation captured our forks, and we fought over the final bite.
Drinks at Ivan Ramen range from standard Asahi beer to refreshing Yuzu Lemonade. If you fancy upgrading your ramen experience, there is also wine available by the glass or bottle – though, given how fast everything moves, you’d be hard pressed to finish a whole bottle.
At Ivan Ramen, the service is swift – ramen is, after all, slow-cooked food eaten fast. While it would have been great to spend more time there and try the sold-out dishes, it only made us want to return. As we left the table, the restaurant continued to draw customers, all ready to fall head over chopsticks for Ivan Ramen.
GO: Visit www.ivanramen.co.uk for more information.