Prepare for a right royal feast in Mayfair.
First things first: we must address the royal elephant in the room. Lilibet’s is named after Queen Elizabeth II, who was born at this very address: 17 Bruton Street. The townhouse that once stood here belonged to her grandparents, the Earl and Countess of Strathmore. Why a potential heir to the throne wasn’t born in a hospital is unclear, but I’m glad she arrived here, because 100 years later, one can get dressed up and go to this great seafood restaurant. I mean, you try enjoying oysters by candlelight in a hospital.
Lilibet’s has been created by the chef and restaurateur, Ross Shonhan. He’s behind less regal offerings, including Bone Daddies in Soho, and prominent projects in the Middle East. Netsu at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai and Strawfire at Emirates Palace Mandarin Oriental, Abu Dhabi are just some of his greatest culinary hits.
It’s important to note, however, that Ross has not made Lilibet’s an obvious shrine to the late Queen. That will be a relief to some, a disappointment to others. I’m with the former, and can happily confirm there is not a scrap of obvious Windsorphilia here. The restaurant itself says Lilibet’s is an imagined alternate reality, one in which her uncle didn’t abdicate the throne, allowing Elizabeth to simply live her best high-society life at this address. As far as concepts for restaurants go, this one is pretty loose, but brilliant nonetheless.
One thing that did strike me as overtly Elizabethan, however, was the well-behaved poodle at the next table; its owners told us they brought Derek here often. This policy felt like a rather classy nod to the corgi-flanked late Queen. There are also quite a few framed paintings of dogs on the way to the loos, which is unexpected in a seafood restaurant. Lilibet’s understated quirkiness is rather fun.
Having said that, the overall mood being conjured is one of glowing opulence. The lighting is quite extraordinary, the main dining room and the bar enveloped in a golden haze. Every table gets a slim candle or two, but there’s also a shimmering quality to many of the surfaces that contributes to the overall effect: a smattering of coloured glass panels, the white marble bar, the touches of salmon pink throughout. Even the cloakroom tags glow, slim squares of gold metal with matching tassels.
The main dining room’s mismatched furnishings and zone-creating screens conjure an old-money townhouse, but there’s also a brighter section on a raised platform next to the kitchen offering a more energetic experience. You can sit in booths or at a counter that peers directly into the open kitchen through windows. These are framed by beds of crushed ice, chilling characters that might become your dinner.
And what of these characters? Well, there’s Fire-Roasted or Fried Oysters, Langoustines, Sea Urchins, Bluefin tuna, and the list goes on. The menu itself skips around the world, so there’s a Tuna Tartare here, Tempura Orawns there. There are the miniature Lobster Rolls of your dreams: carefully toasted, stuffed and trussed-up brioche buns, which can arrive crowned with an aristocratic sprinkling of Oscietra caviar if you so desire.
The Red Shrimps arrive arranged on a regal pillow, which includes a paella-style pan of baked shellfish rice. It’s a satisfying, light-touch dish with beautifully browned edges that contrast wonderfully with the soft shrimp flesh, handled delicately to retain as much moisture as possible.
Nestled between this pescatarian onslaught is the mouthwatering Portuguese-style steak sandwich called a Prego. A briefly seared fillet between two slices of lightly toasted bread, the meat’s garlicky brown juices soaking into their surroundings. I learned this is a traditionally Portuguese conclusion to a seafood meal, and it certainly provides heavy punctuation after eating at sea all evening.
Desserts range from a Princess Cake with almond, raspberry and sponge, to Guinness Sticky Toffee Pudding with vanilla ice cream. If you’d rather keep it sweet and strong, I would suggest one of the brilliant cocktails. For example, an Irish coffee with Chantilly cream, or the Melon Breeze, a velvety sugar rush of white rum, crème de melon, green Chartreuse and honeydew melon.
As you would naturally expect from a restaurant named after a Queen, Lilibet’s appears to be fit for royalty. Our experience was not only professional and mostly seamless, but also bursting with character — and not in an annoying way, but in a way that suggests they have taken the time to create a good-humoured culture that values personalities. And, as befits a woman who jumped out of a helicopter in a sparkly pink dress for the Olympics, Lilibet’s doesn’t always take itself too seriously.
Where: Lilibet’s, 17 Bruton Street, Mayfair, London, W1J 6QB
When: Monday to Saturday from 12pm to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 11pm
Contact: Vwww.lilibetsrestaurant.com