Chef Larry Jayasekara's Cocochine excels with its farm-to-table experience.
Richard Burton once praised Elizabeth Taylor for her stillness on camera. Trained in the theatre, he was used to performances where every gesture needed to be larger than life. For her, there lay a strength in subtlety. Restaurants can be divided into Burtons and Taylors – those with Insta‑theatrics, and those that command attention with quiet confidence. Cocochine in Mayfair, London, is unmistakably a Taylor – and it is all the more compelling in its restraint.
Cocochine is located in the hidden gem area of Bruton Place. Tucked away on a side street, it plays host to several culinary hits, from FACT Dining Award nominees like the Guinea Grill to the recently opened SiLVA. Now, Chef Larry Jayasekara has opened his fine dining, farm-to-table restaurant in a four-storey townhouse.
At the heart of Cocochine’s menu is Larry’s aim to show that fine dining and sustainability can sit side by side. One of the restaurant’s partners owns 1,100 acres of farmland in Northamptonshire and supplies the beef, game, and vegetables from there. Meanwhile, the chef himself draws inspiration from his Sri Lankan roots. His career includes working as Head Chef under Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley’s Petrus, as well as in the kitchens of Alain Roux, Michel Bras, Raymond Blanc, and Gordon Ramsay. The result: a restaurant that combines seasonal produce with a Sri Lankan touch.
The experience combines cuisine with culture, from the David Hockney and Pablo Picasso art on the walls to the recently revamped second‑floor private dining room. Larry explained: “Cocochine has always been personal to me. This new season is about refining that vision, respecting the craft, celebrating provenance, and showing how Mayfair dining can move forward with sustainability at its core.”
Upon arrival, it felt as if we had entered a private members’ club. If you’d like a more immersive experience, book the chef’s counter‑seat table. The main dining room boasts dark woods, red banquettes and sectioned‑off spaces for privacy. We sat on the ground floor by the windows, where we could watch the passers-by. The staff were attentive without being overbearing and knowledgeable about the smallest details in the menu — from the herbs to the provenance of ingredients.
We started with the signature menu, which the kitchen easily adapted for my vegetarian friend. The Japanese Otoro Tuna was rich and topped with Oscietra caviar. The Ceylon King Crab Salad came with a tangy touch of apple and cucumber. Each ingredient was able to shine in its simplicity.
The nods to Sri Lanka came alive with the Banana Leaf BBQ Native Lobster, and the touches of tamarind. The Dry Aged Rumbler Lamb came with a surprising yet subtle melon accompaniment. And, the Watalappam that traditionally comes with cloves, cardamom and jaggery could have done without the extra caviar.
When it comes to the drinks, we urge you to place your trust in the superb sommelier. In fact, the wine list is so extensive, it’s backed by an impressive cellar downstairs. We particularly enjoyed the recommendation of the Polvorete, a bright white wine that complemented the dishes. Moreover, the team's dedication to ensuring we found the right pairing was evident, as they offered samples until we sipped our way to perfection. As we watched the world go by, we were more than content to sit with our glass in hand and let the team work their wonders.
Cocochine: classy, composed and camera-ready for all the right reasons.
GO: Visit www.thecocochine.com for more information.