The rising designer on tradition, tokenism and talent.

"Me being in the fashion industry is an act of resistance," explains the Jordanian-Palestinian Zeid Hijazi. That's not a line many fashion designers can say, but for him, it's true. Based between Jordan and London, he recently graduated from Central Saint Martins. He has already notched up a GQ Middle East campaign and a V&A Museum display, and is now on his way to greater things. With London Fashion Week taking place from 18 to 22 September, we spoke with the designer about his experience in the industry.

From Jordan to London

Born in Amman, Jordan, Zeid grew up fascinated by the idea of the past, present, and co-existing. He explains: "I was fascinated with things that had nothing to do with the typical idea of fashion. I loved stories about things that go against societal norms. Centuries ago, all the things we think are weird now were things people used in order to survive."

Such stories pushed him to question his Palestinian identity, and he found himself visiting historical sites like the Dome of the Rock. He drew inspiration from Arab alchemy, ancient folklore, and esoteric art. Harnessing these experiences, he was able to create his distinctive ready-to-wear pieces that can be seen today.

From the start of our interview, Zeid makes it clear that he hopes to be acknowledged for his designs as well as his heritage. He enthuses: "I don't feel like I need to shout that I'm Palestinian to be recognised. I want to just be, and show them."

Zeid doesn't necessarily see it as a responsibility to always mention his roots in his work. While platforming Palestinians in fashion is ultimately a goal, he doesn't want to force it into every collection. "At the end of the day, whatever I make, whatever I design, if you go to the root of it, it will always revolve around Palestine anyway. I don't have to perform it because it is me," he reveals.

At Central Saint Martins, he would love to share ideas for new and playful collections with tutors, only to be told to focus on the violence in Gaza. He recalls: "As long as I put a garment on a woman and I'm happy with the way it looks, I've achieved my goal. It's just a feeling, like listening to a good song! I get this certain dopamine hit, and then I know I've been true to myself. Every time I design a gorgeous, sensual dress, that's me rebelling."

Zeid hopes to venture into menswear, especially since men are often perceived as conservatively dressed in the Arab world. He says: "We're seen as one-dimensional, with no depth or artistry. When people see one of my dresses that could be seen on a red carpet, that's not something they'd expect from a male Arab designer."

Designing a dream

So far, we've only seen a select handful of Arab designers graduate from Central Saint Martins each year. Zeid hopes that one day, Arab designers will be able to lead Western fashion houses. "Who would think an Arab could take over Yves Saint Laurent?" he questions. "We bring new ideas to the table. The fashion industry is not exposed to what we have to offer. My goal is to shift the mindset around the 'Arab designer' and what he can do."

"In every article, they say 'Zeid Hijazi, the Palestinian designer to watch'. Why can't I just be 'the new designer to watch'?" he asks. FACT will be the first to say: Zeid Hijazi is the rising new designer to watch, not only for his roots, but for his sheer artistic talent.

GO: Visit www.zeidhijazi.com for more information.