The Pakistani designer speaks on inclusivity and identity. 

When British-Pakistani Hadiyah Hussain joined Central Saint Martins, she struggled. She approached her tutor – the only one of colour she had all year – and they said: "Do you know how many Brown and Black people get into this course? You are not quitting." As a result, we now have a bold designer who is unafraid of tapping into her personal stories and creating a collection. With London Fashion Week taking place from 18 to 22 September, we spoke with the designer about her experience in the industry.

Investigating identity

Through the support of Hadiyah's tutors and students, she began to uncover aspects of herself and her art that had been previously hidden. She shares: "I realised how much I suppressed my heritage and culture within myself, for such a long time. In the real world, I'd Westernise myself to avoid being my true self. It wasn't cool to be Pakistani back then, so I wouldn't talk about it. But then I got to Central Saint Martins, I saw non-Pakistani girls walking around with bindis, and they just had no idea what was going on." 

Hadiyah Hussain loves her culture. By delving into her university library and researching Pakistani fashion, colours, and fabrics, she came into her own – eventually creating the brand we see today. She is determined to uphold inclusivity and sustainability by making each piece from locally sourced and deadstock fabrics. Her business is currently a one-woman team, but it's already gaining traction.

Wearing your politics on your sleeve

When Hadiyah started, she recalls having doubts. She explains: "I felt like it was all out of my league. I was out of my depth because everyone else knew about fashion brands, collections, history - I didn't know anything". Hadiyah believes there's a big responsibility for small designers to uphold their moral values. She says, "It's not something I'm going to hide from. Up-and-coming brands should be politically focused, and fashion has always been political." 

Hadiyah recently designed for Nooriyah, an Arab DJ who headlined the Jazz Cafe Festival in London. The custom set was made with a red jersey fabric and red and white keffiyehs at the hem – an outfit she was delighted to create since it would be seen by thousands.

She explains: "Whenever you see a keffiyeh, you know it's a political statement as well as a fashion choice – it's a blend of both. I think it's beautiful because people wear a normal outfit and then pair it with a matching or clashing keffiyeh. They can use it as a form of drape, a hijab, a scarf or just have it with them for the day."

Creating accessible art has always been at the core of Hadiyah's brand ethos. Providing opportunities for young, rising designers who want to contribute to a good cause aligns perfectly with that. Hadiyah plans to make these sets available for the public to purchase, as well as collaborate with designers from Sudan, Yemen, and Palestine. Together, they aim to create prints for tops dedicated to each country, with profits going directly to those regions.

Sizing up the fashion industry 

Size inclusivity is another key aspect of Hadiyah's brand – reflected in the models she works with and the sizing options available on her website. She shares: "I see it as a responsibility, but always a positive one. I'm a girl who has been a size 10 and a size 16. My weight has always fluctuated, I have PCOS, and I'm Pakistani. There are so many different things that make me a woman. I come from a different angle than other small brands might." 

"I want people to know that I make clothes for everyone – all bodies, all women, and they're flattering in the way they fit." Hadiyah Hussain: fashion with a purpose. 

GO: Visit https://hadiyahhussain.com for more information.